Our stay at The Bears Den was fantastic and brought back many memories of our first year on the trail. That year it took three day to walk south from Harpers Ferry to Bears den, about 21 miles. Walking north the next day we made 16.3 miles to a primitive camp in WV. The most interesting thing that happened was meeting a section hiker I had passed while running to get my wallet. We talked for a few minutes while walking and he offered to give us a ride to town for resupply. This solved a problem of getting from Harpers Ferry to Charlestown where the store is. When we got to the proper road crossing he and his wife were waiting for us. After some gear moving we all fit and off for the 15 mile trip (one way). They are from Gainsville, GA and he runs the trail while she moves the vehicle. Back to the trail and a few more miles we stopped about four miles from town at a dry primitive camp. Te night was coll and we slept with the tent fly pulled back getting lots of fresh air while we slept.

Next morning up and into town by 0830. deb waited by the ATC HQ while I ran to the Post Office mailing the last few things to our daughter. The last thing we have that can be lightened are our sleeping bags,they will be switched out in Duncannon. Once the ATC opened we got our pictures taken and entered into the 2010 hiker book. We were numbers 197 and 198 north bound Thru Hikers for the year, it felt good to know we are in the lead pack. We hear there is a large bubble of bodies behind us. On our way out of town we were stopped and talked to a couple from out west in Tillamook, OR. They were amazed that someone on the east coast knew about their little town. We cut it short and headed back up trail as the weather was forecast to get wet by night fall. We hit the shelter right at 4PM just as the lightning and rain started. The storm blew out after a few hours and made for good sleeping.

Friday the terrain was gentle so we decided to do just over 20 miles to the Ensign Cowall Shelter. We did great for the first part of the day. Then the thunder started to peal like a Civil War Artillery battle, our pace picked up trying to make the shelter before we were soaked. Made the thing by 3:15, three people were there doing a zero day waiting for a mail drop in town. Then the weekender’s started to roll down the trail looking for a place to park for the night.

Saturday we walked out of PA into MD. Some people try to do four states in 24 hours, some 53 miles. We did the four states in four days, VA-WV-MD-PA is the only place on the trail you can do it. We met a guy this year who missed the 24 hr challenge by three miles! he ran out of gas and time just three miles short. More Trail Magic for our food resupply. We had stopped in Pen-Mar Park for a snack. A couple started asking about our walk and ended up giving us a ride to the store. After we finished we walked over to the Post Office to drop some cards in the box. That done we started back to the trail a guy in a pickup asked if we needed a ride back to the trail, again Trail Magic and only a few extra steps away from the official trail miles.

Sunday morning walking through a state park while people are cooking on the grills is pure torture to a hiker. We had to stop at the end of Caledonia SP after doing that we were starving and needed to grab a bite before continuing. It was a 15.8 mile day to the best kept shelter on the AT, Quarry Gap Shelter. The caretaker works very hard to keep things nice, hanging flowers, painted floors, groomed gravel all around the place and a quiet air about the place. We got there by 12:30PM and spent the rest of the day relaxing.

June 7th, time to cross the half way mark! Things are starting to pick up pace and miles seem to melt behind us. After stopping at Pine Grove Furnace Park for ice cream and a rest on the beach we started back up the trail. Next thing we knew we were walking into the James Frye shelter for a new record of 24.5 miles on the day. The record did not last long. The next day (yesterday) we made 26.3 miles across the Cumberland Valley. we did this to avoid walking the valley in the rain the next day. Today the 9th of June we walked 121.1 miles into Duncannon, PA for resupply, wash cloths and showers. Our lighter sleeping bags were here and the heavy ones are in a box ready to go home. In the morning we will stop at the Post office to mail those off along with our next food drop going to Port Clinton, PA. Looking at the trail ahead we should walk out of PA in 10 days.

A short walk between updates! Well we headed out of town on Monday under clear sky’s and high humidity. The motel gave us all a shuttle back to the trail head, there were eight hikers staying there. We were on the first trip arriving at the trail Deb noticed she had left her trekking poles leaning against the wall by the door of the motel. Good thing there was a second run so they could bring them to her. After the 45 minute delay we headed up the trail sweating so hard it was dripping off our elbows! Why do all the towns sit at the bottom of the mountains? This one was quite long and steep, we did 15.2 miles this day ending at Dick’s Dome Shelter. We passed under I66 at one point in the day near lunch time. As we were filling my water bladder near the freeway the rumble of thunder rolled down the valley. So as to not waste time we put our rain covers on our packs. Not 500 yards later the sky opened up and the water came down! sometimes you win and sometimes you lose, today we won. No need for rain jackets with the temp near 80 degrees, just wait for the rain to stop. About five miles later the rain stopped and we were able to dry most of the way before getting to the shelter, that is all but the sweat soaked stuff. We made the shelter by 4:30PM where Linda (a lady we have been hiking with for the last few days) had a nice fire going to welcome us. This shelter only is listed as holding four, but we squeezed in five for the night.

Today we figured we would walk all the way to “The Bears Den Hostel.” We had stayed there in 2007 and wanted to visit again. This ment a 19 mile day was in store. Everyone was up early, real early 5:15 AM and we started up the trail by 6:30AM our earliest start ever. With the heat and humidity being so high late in the day we thought it best to try to beat it today. We had to traverse a section called “The Roller Coaster” because of the seven large elevation gains and drops in the last 10 miles. We did the first nine miles in 3.25 hours, real fast for the situation. After a short chow break we hit the coaster. Tough is too simple of a word for this section today. We did however cover today what took us two days in 2007. The last 10 miles took five hours, the first time was an all day event with the last hour in headlamp mode! With regularity we now are covering in a day what took two the first year of hiking. Here at the hostel they have loaner cloths you can wear while yours are in the wash. Before going to shower I went through the selection of mens stuff. The only pants that looked like they might fit had a 34″ waist. I took them with me just to see if they might work. After drying off I pulled them on slowly, much to my surprise the fit with room to spare. I did wear a 42″ waist when we started hiking on 07 and was in 38s when I left this year. Not sure what my weight is, but is lower than I have been in a real long time.

Tomorrow in just over three miles we walk out of VA! 1/4 of the entire train is in this state and we are glad to see an end to it. We will reach Harpers Ferry Thursday morning and do a resupply and move up trail. West Virginia is only 15 miles so Maryland will be next with 40 some miles. After that we will be in PA and the half way point. Tomorrow we also will pass the 1,000 mile mark, how the time and miles are slipping behind us.

Our stay at the Dutch Haus was wonderful. The only thing we were dreading was the walk 1 mile up the mountain back to the trail. It was a dirt road that was only 4×4 useable. When the shuttle dropped us off we slung our packs on and headed up the road. Another pair of hikers were just behind us taking more time to get ready. Walking up the road/trail we heard a horn honk, thinking it was our shuttle saying good-by we continued to walk. Squeeking springs caused us to look behind us. A pickup was coming up the hill with the other hikers sitting in the bed. A nice man pulled up asking if we were going to the top. Gladly we jumped in the back for the rollercoaster ride to the top. After he dropped us off he said have a good hike, turned around then drove back down the hill. Just when we really need help the Lord provides.

This first day back out we headed north towards “The Preist” a large mountain we struggled to climb in 2007. Walking up the south side was much more comfortable. We stopped at the shelter there for lunch remembering our night there, then started the four mile descent to the Tye River below. The walk down beat our joints badly. crossing the bridge over the river we saw three friends of ours lounging in the cool water. We decided to join them for a soak. Small fish and pollywogs swam around our legs as we soaked th epian from our legs. After a hour or so we headed up the mountain to Harpers Creek Shelter for a 12.1 mile day. We could only find a flat spot big enough for one,soDeb slept in the tent and I was in the shelter with the snoring crowd. Thank God for ear plugs.

Morning came and we went over the profile for our days walk. Looked like we could make a new record and get to the Paul Wolf Shelter nead Waynesboro, VA where we would resupply. The route took us over Three Ridges, a tough climb making us wonder why they take us to the top of these things just to go over the top. There are four really nice waterfalls up a side trail that used to be the AT, but now it is a Blue Blaze. There was some fruit Trail Magic for us along the trail that hit the spot. A family of Ruffed Grouse close to the trail provided us a show as the mother and father fained injury as the chicks scattered towards the underbrush. The last 5.5 miles down to the shelter were hard as my leg was swollen from a bug bite and our feet were stone brused from the walk. 22 miles in 11 hours was a good time for a couple in their 50s, we arrived at the shelter at 7PM.

Walking the five miles into Waynesboro we saw something new. A Menonite group of women dressed in a rainbow of ankle length dresses and backpacks, clean as a pin. Three women who had Thru Hiked last year set up a real nice trail magic station where we rested before going into town eating some tasty sandwiches. The trail angel who drove us into town did not know about the Post Office helping out hikers. They are closed on Saturdays, but if a hiker goes to the loading dock they will bring them their mail. We were able to get our resupply boxes and then complete our preparation for going through Shenandoah Park. Walking around town we would stop to watch the Soapbox Derby races down the main street. Sunday we woke up and decided to take a Zero day and rested the day away.

Monday the same trail angel drove us back to the trail where we only did seven miles to the first shelter. The shelters in the park are spaced about every 13 miles, but the first one is 13 miles from the Wolf shelter outside the park. To get on the schedule we took a short day. The last people who walked into the shelter were unique. He was a scientist who worked at Johns Hopkins in Baltimore. The only thing he did when he left work was change his shoes and take his tie off. Cotton shirt with button down collar, cotton dress slacks and a pocket protector in his shirt pocket complete with pens! What you see out here!

13 miles to Blackrock Hut on Tuesday. The rain caught us about two miles short of the hut soaking us before we could make it in. Rain both morning and afternoon this day. The nice thing one of the women had a nice fire going when we walked in. The Mountai Laurel is now in ful bloom and lining the trail with pink flowers. A Whiporwill kept us up during the night as it would move near our tent and scream all night! We are walking our normal 13 miles by just after noon. Not wanting to waste daylight we continued to walk. Third day in the park we did 21.4 miles to High Tp Hut, during the day we saw a doe and yearling up close near the trail. Made the walk by 5:15PM. We did stop into a camp store int he park to supplement our lunches. Along with more miles comes more food consumed!

Thursday was another 20+ miles day taking us to Big Meadows Campground where we shared a camp site with other hikers splitting the cost. A mean thunder storm rolled over us giving quite the show. The nice thing was we only got four or five minutes of rain! We also toasted marshmellows over the fire before bed. 18.3 miles the next day to the Pass Mountain Hut. When we were near Skyland we saw our first bear in four summers of hiking. It was a young one who had just been kicked out on his own by his mother. The breeding season is close so th eyoung are now looking for a place to call their own. The thunder chased us to the shelter in the afternoon again. The last mile we almost ran as lightning cracked overhead.

Fridaay was a long day. We got an early start and stopped at the Elkwallow Wayside for a snack. Opening my paclk I found I had dropped my wallet at the last shelter seven miles back! We waited for the first few friends to walk in asking about it. None had seen it so I decided to run back to look for it. I ran the downs and flats then walked the ups. Made the seven miles in one hour forty minutes without my pack. I found a note from some guys headed suth, they had found it and taken it to the Ranger station a mile down the mountain. Arriving there I was delighted to find my wallet there along with all my stuff! A real nice guy even offered to give me a ride back to where Deb was sitting waiting. More provision of the Lord. A 13 mile day turned into a 21 mile day for me.

Saturday we headed for town. We cleared the parks 107 miles in seven days not the eight we had thought. Arriving at the road there were six other hikers all trying to get to town. After about 30 minutes we got a ride in from a guy who Thru Hiked in 95. Spent the rest of the day doing the refit/resupply/clean up drill. Today we head for Harpers Ferry. Amazing we are almost half way done!

We left Daleville after a nice day of rest. The weather was supposed to be much warmer with no rain. The whole day we were in the fog and drizzle with a medium breeze. Out of town by 8:30AM and still made 18.5 miles to the Bobblets Gap Shelter. In 2007 when we hiked south in this area we still could not make big miles like now. Mostly we would go shelter to shelter, now we go past one or even two shelters like this day. There were some of the other hikers who did not go to “Trail Days” in Damascus who shared our shelter that night. We were all beat by the miles and elevation gains putting everyone in the sack by 8PM even before the sun set.

Overnight there was more rain, but it stopped before we hit the trail. There was trail magic at one of the road crossings left by a man who is driving a support vehicle so his wife can do the hike. He blew his knee out early in their hike and has been in support ever since. We did 13.5 miles this day ending at the Bryant Ridge Shelter. Around 8PM the thunder showers moved in cooling things off and driving everyone into the shelter not their tents. No one likes packing up a wet tent in the morning! One of the section hikers was a snore master vibrating the floor of the shelter all night long. This is noteworthy as the shelter is a mamoth structure made of post and beams pegged not nailed.

May 15th was a short day as we were setting ourselves up for resupply in Glasgow later in the week. 10.2 miles to the Thunder Hill Shelter. We arrived early and for the first time we had lunch and supper at the same shelter. Nice thing about the early stop was we had first pick of flat tent sites. Knowing there is a snore master coming we picked a spot far from the shelter. I thought I was developing a shin splint on this day as my lower leg was hurting on th edown hills. I have since found out I was bitten by something and it is just now starting to get better. There was a 50% chance of rain that night, we got all 50%! The storm hit as the last section hikers came dragging in just before 10PM.

Sunday the 16th we were going to hold up just short of the road crossing and go into town on Monday for resupply. The day turned out to be very nice and we thought it would be easier to hitch into town with all the weekend traffic. We had some things waiting for us at the post office to pick up Monday morning. These could be forwarded for us with a phone call to Waynesboro, VA a stop up trail. A church group gave us a ride into town as soon as we reached the road. After we picked up our food, it only took 10 minutes of hitching to get back to the trail. This allowed us to make the next shelter before the rain started. We made 16.3 miles this day ending in the Johns Hollow Shelter.

8.8 miles are all we managed to make on Monday. We were glad we chose to do food on Sunday. Monday morning was wind and rain, not the best hitch hiking situation. The climb out of the shelter was long and hard gaining over 1,500′ in a driving rain. Reaching the Punch Bowl Shelter for lunch both of us were wet and cold. Motovation to continue did not manafest it’s self after we ate so we settled into our sleeping bags making hot drinks and putting on our dry cloths. We made up for the short miles the next day doing 17.6 miles to Hog Camp Gap. Forcast called for 50% chance of rain, it never developed thank God. We needed to get to town the next day before 11AM and wanted to be as close as possible. We walked until 6PM before setting up camp. This was aided by some well timed trail magic. Two miles before our scheduled lunch break a couple who Thru Hiked in 1987 had set up next to the trail. They made us each a large sandwich, chips, dip and sweet tea. Once that was polished off we had some cheese cake for desert! This fueled our afternoons walking. We prayed for good weather until we were tucked into the tent for the night. The Lord was faithful! pulling our bags closed around our necks at 8PM the pitter pat of rain on the tent fly signaled the nights showers.

This moening we had a cold breakfast and hit the trail by 7AM. The pace was fast as we had over 10 miles to do before 11AM to meet our ride into town. we averaged over 2mph for the distance of 11.6 miles and only missed the truck by 10 minutes. This ment an additional 2.5 mile walk into town and our Bed & Breakfast. The walk was worth it as we made the free lunch! Supper was delicous, the laundry is done, our resupply box now empty and in the packs and we are ready for the three day walk to Waynesboro, VA. After that it will be into Shannandoah National Park and off to West Virginia.

260 miles up the trail from my last post! We have been making fantastic time through VA. We had planned to wait out some threatening weather while we were in Damascus.  The town was like being a Crabber sitting in Dutch Harbor, Alaska waiting for a break to go fishing.  All the hikers were checking their favorite weather source, comparing notes and opinions with other hikers at all the watering holes.   Once the first hiker decided to just shoulder their pack and walk out of town, the rest started to follow.  We were among the first group to head up trail.  Even starting near noon we managed to make 12.2 mile3s that day ending up at a shelter.  It rained and blew that night and our new tent performed great.

Day 2 out of town we walked into Mt Rogers, National Rec Area.  The place is famous for flowers during the peak bloom and a herd of wild ponies.  It was too early for the flowers, but the ponies were right on the trail.  Last time we walked here we never got close, this time they walked right up to us licking the salt from our arms.  We kept “Flat Stanley” with us for this section and Riley received some very unique pictures of the adventure. That day the wind was very strong blowing in some kind of storm overnight.  We walked out the next morning in a full gale with rain.  The high point of this day was the last three miles.  They were mostly up hill. A couple of young ladies were leap frogging with us all day, at the start of this long climb they had passed us.  Soon enough we caught them and they yielded letting us pass, commenting on how strong we hiked!

Short miles met us the next day as we walked into Troutdale, VA.  We needed to mailed Flat Stanley home and resupply food.  Rain by the bucket dropped on us as we got out of the van that gave us a ride into town.  What started out as just a food stop ended up being the end of the day.  Why walk out of town when you have a warm building to sleep in?  Walking up the trail the next morning made us even more pleased with our choice.  Mt Rogers had 4″ of fresh snow.  We had only thought of walking to “Partnership Shelter” this day, arriving before 2:30PM we opted to move on.  21.6 miles and in the shelter before dark!

Atkins, VA in the morning for a hot breakfast and more food resupply. The store we had planned to shop at had closed it’s doors over the winter.  Asking our waitress where we could get food, she introduced to the owner of the local hostel.  She was on the way to Marion and said she would be happy to give us a ride there and back. Provided for again!  18.5 miles was our total for that day, not bad considering we took three hours for the breakfast and resupply.  We had the Jenkins Shelter to ourselves that night so sleep was restful.  April 30th we knocked off 19 .1 miles making our total for the three days a record…..59.1 miles in three days!

Bland, VA  was our next stop.  Last timer we went into this town it was less than welcoming.  This time we were met at the road by a Trail Angel picking us up before we could make it all the way onto the shoulder of the road.  She asked if we were headed to the store then offered us a place to stay, supper, showers, laundry, breakfast and a ride back to the trail in the morning.  More provision!

May 3rd we saw one of the best displays of friendship. “On The Loose” had been trying to catch her friend “Braids.” As we turned off the trail to have lunch at “Dismal Creek Falls” “Braids came walking down the trail looking for “Loose.”  She had received a few messages on her phone from “Loose” and had taken the day to hike back to her friend to cheer her up.  They are still walking together today.  They spent the night at the shelter with us.  This was the shelter where in 2007 we met “The Baglady” from Rochester, NY.

Deborah broke a tooth the next day on the way to Pearisburg.  We had planned to stop short of town then go in the next morning.  It was another case of we are making miles so quickly when we got to our projected end the day was real early.  Looking around we did not like what we saw, so it was off to town.  We lucked out and were able to get a dentist appointment for the next morning.  Bad part is they could not help her in less than two weeks. She will need to be carefull for the rest of the hike.

Left town the next day about 2PM after doing all the normal town chores.    We saw our first “Lady Slipper” flowers today.  Made it to Rice Field Shelter about 5:30 PM.  After everyone was done with supper we all sat on the bald and watched the most wonderful sunset.  The next day I got something bad in my food at lunch.  We did make 16.4 miles to a shelter and the “Grunge” did not hit until the next morning.  I had bad stomach pains and could not eat breakfast along with “The Runs.” When I can’t eat it is bad! I managed to make the next shelter at 8.8 miles before I had to go down for a rest.  By supper time I was coming around and could hold down food.

Thunder woke us up about 4:30AM and the lightning flashes made it hard to get back to sleep.  By breakfast time it had stopped but the temp had dropped to the cold side.  This days walk brought us to Deborah’s favorite ridge section of the AT.  There is a rock formation that looks like a skull.  The flowers and trees were all in bloom and the air was filled with sweet fragrances all afternoon. 18.2 miles  today, over double the previous days miles!  Mother’s Day we saw our first rhododendrons in bloom, Spring is really here now. Made 17.7 miles including going over “Dragon’s Tooth.”

May 10th we hiked up “McAfee’s Knob” in the most beautiful day.  Lunch was taken while looking down on the picture perfect valley community nestled amongst the majestic mountains.  That night we were treated to “Smores” by two other hikers who carried the fixin’s in from town.  During our 2007 hike we walked out of Daleville, VA the Tuesday after Mother’s Day.  This year we walked into the same town the Tuesday after Mother’s Day.

Took the next day off and now I’m all caught up with where we have been and how we are doing.  Just at 720 miles up the trail, I have lost 22 lbs and are looking forward to the next 1400 miles.  Next update should be in a few weeks or so.

Well the Smokies went very good, as a matter of fact they were great. God blessed us with the best weather ever. Nine days without any precipitation! Once clear of the Smokies we took a partial day off at Standing Bear Farm Hostel where I last checked in.  We needed the rest after trudging through what was left of the winters snows.  While doing our laundry there I messed up one of Debs’ favorite hoodies.  A note to the younger set…. When using a wringer washer, pay attention to the edges of the machine and your clothing.  I did not and the hood and back of the garment became entangled in the gears and wrecked it.

We left there on Apr 7th heading north towards Hot Springs.  The first mountain we climbed was Snowbird.  While on to p we made a couple of phone calls to home to arrange equipment swaps.  The weather was clear and we had views of 50+ miles in all directions.  We did 15.4 miles that dat across a number of “Balds” all with great views. The day got up 92 degrees and Deb was having problems climbing the hills. The second day out we made 14.8 miles to Deer Park Mtn Shelter.  The new plants of Spring really started to pop this day with Blueits, Blood Root, May Apples and Trillium all showing for the first time.

While walking with my head down I heard my old trail name “OD” called out. It was a SOBO (southbounder) named “Lucky,” we had dined together at “The Mayor’s” in Unionville, NY on Halloween night.  He was only a few week from the end of his hike. He started in July of 09, took 3 months off for the worst part of winter starting again in March.  To be a “Thru-Hike” you must complete all the miles within 365 days and most SOBO’s run from one year to the next.

Apr 8th we walked into Hot Springs, NC.  We had planned to resupply there and keep going.  While in the store the rain started to come in buckets. We decided to stay the night and not walk out of town in the rain. We did receive a bit of “Trail Magic” when the maid allowed us to use the motel laundry to do our wash.  This saved sitting in the laundromat. Before heading out of town the next morning we took breakfast at the local Diner, always a good bet and today was no exception.

Heading out of town the weather had turned cold and temps were down into the 40s.  Deb was still having problems with her pack causing problems with her lower back and legs.  we met a family out of Buffalo, NY who were day hiking and amazed to find people walking rom GA to ME.  I made a big mistake while trying to get my bear bag rope up in camp.  The only branch I could find was near the tent. While I was pitching the rope with stone attached, Deb asked if I should be doing that so close to the tent.  The words were no sooner out of her mouth when the stone bounced off a limb, the tree, a limb, the tree then through our tent fly.  Lucky enough I had some repair tape to fix the two resulting holes.  we were looking at another 7-10 days of clear weather so we had time to go over our options.

April 11th we walked 14.7 miles to the Hog Back Ridge Shelter. We had walked 313 miles in 25 walking days at an average of 12.5 miles per day.  Not bad for almost senior citizens!  This stretch of trail is where in 07 we got hit by a fearsome thunder storm. To come through in clear hot weather gave us a much more pleasant day.  Deb’s feet were still giving her blister problems, the first in four years of long distance walking.  We also had some Trail Magic this day.  There was a couple who had Thru-Hikes in 06 set up on the side of a road we had to cross. He had a “Coleman Trail Oven” baking fresh home made pizzas! On the grill were Brauts, hot dogs and polish sausages cooking away.  We stopped and partook of the goodies.  we look forward to doing something like this next hiking season for the 2011 crowd.

12 April we did our first over 20 miles day.  The plan was to do 13-15 miles, camp then into Erwin, TN in the morning.  AT the 12 mile mark deb said she wanted to just head for town, so off we went for a total of 20.7 miles in a 10 hour day.  We spent most of the afternoon doing our normal town chores. We got a box from home and switched out some of our gear, like a lighter sleeping bag for me ( as per my normal a bit early).  We had thought of doing a Zero day, but ended up heading back to the trail just after noon the next day.  Deb had received replacement boots from LL Bean and was happy as a clam walking out of town.  Our night in town was poor sleeping, not because someone snoring but the trail rolling into/out of town every two hours.

Leaving town we had thought of doing  about seven miles to a camp site. Leaving at 12:45 I did not think we could do much more than that.  We ended up doing just over 12.  Our trail legs are starting to really work. The next day was April 15th our one month out date. we did 14.1 miles and were in the shelter by 3:15PM.  We wanted to stop early for rest. the next day we had to climb Roan Mtn which is over 6,000″.  The day was perfect for the climb, cool but not cold, a slight breeze to keep the sweat down but not blow you over.  Just above 5,600′ we hit snow again, the first since the Smokies and hopefully the last of the year.  The trail crews had been working in the area, we encountered many places where there were more than one set of White Blazes to follow, very confusing to say the least.  Even with the snow and huge elevation gain and losses we managed to get in 16 miles.  We had planned our end point from data in my trail guidebook. The book was wrong and we had no water for cooking that night or resupply in the morning.  Result was we had to back track 3/4 mile to an area where we had water.  There were however no real good tenting sites.

About midnight the wind really picked up, then around 4AM the rain started.  Breakfast was cold food eaten in the tent then packing everything except the tent while inside.  Last thing packed was the tent then off and up Big Hump Mtn.  The wind was blowing a gale with rain being driven sideways.  I did a video clip and you can really see what we were battling.  The fly repair held, but was badly weakened.

After a 15 mile day on 17 April we camped at the Mountaineer Shelter. Two hikers had been joined by a friend for this section.  when they arrived the guest started cooking supper for the lot. A cheese fondu! He had lugged 3lbs of cheese, a bottle of wine and three loafs of homemade sourdough bread up the mountain to share with his friends! It smelt as good as it tasted (they shared with all there).  After supper I started a fire and while sitting telling stories this visitor sat in the shadows playing his penny whistle singing old whaling songs.

The next day we walked into “Kincora” the home and hostel of Bob Peoples, one of the most famous trail builders in the world. He offered us a chance to slack pack across the bad stretch just ahead.  We were expecting to have a mail envelope from home, it was not there and wouldn’t arrive until the next afternoon.  We chose to do the slack pack and not just sit for the day.  It was a good choice, the mountain was tough!

In the mail we received a “Flat Stanley” from Rochester, NY.  He will walk with us for a week or so.  His first day he helped Bob a work crew build a stretch of new trail. We did 15.7 miles that day in addition to the hour of trail work.  The afternoon brought rain, so we sheltered it not trusting the fly. One girl came in with a “Ghetto Hammock” she had cobbed together.  10 minutes after it was dark she came running to the shelter with all her stuff.  Seems the hammock tore in half dropping her behind to the ground! She had to sleep on the picnic table as the shelter was full.  15.9 miles the next day put us just 10 miles out of Damascus, VA. Most of the young crowd just pushed on for a 26 mile day.  We couldn’t see walking all that way just to pay for a bed for the night.

22 April we walked out of TN and into VA.  We have made our gear changes and are now resting a day to let the rain pass.  Deb has a new pack and her old comfortable boots.   The new tent is improvement over the  being just over one pound lighter.  Now I’m running up against the library closing time and will update this whenever I get to a computer next.

Hello everyone. Deb and I walked out of the Smokies yesterday afternoon. We were blessed with perfect weather all the way through. We did have to buck snow up to four feet deep in places for the last three days. We post holed through the soft stuff more than I like to think about. Tomorrow we head for Hot Springs, NC. Nothing crazy happened, we are passing many hiker who started before us. Now we are clear of the snow I think we can bump up our average miles per day to 14-15. We could only do 8-10 the last three days in the park. Need to get off and think about supper duties. Thanks for following.

Sorry for the delay, I can not log on here from my cell phone so will update as I get access to a computer.  Watch my Facebook page and listen to us on TrailPhone.net.

The ride from the hostel to Springer Mountain was a mix of Mr Toads Wild Ride, a mud bog race and an up hill luge run!  Two of the women in the Suburban with us got their trail names on the ride “I peed myself” and “I Pooed myself” should cover the ride well enough.  The first day started cold and did not warm much.  We were amazed at the large number of folks starting with us.  The Hawk Mountain Shelter had over 60 people with 90% saying they were “Thru-Hikers.”  Deb and I pulled away from all but the young strong hikers, but every shelter is almost the same story. Night 1 went well and we slept soundly.

Day two we made just over 8.7 miles and primitive camped at Suches Gap.  We had a tent neighbor who was a human wood shredder! Snoring lasted until 5AM, Deb slept little.  Day three we blasted for Blood Mtn thinking the shelter had a nice meadow. We were mixed up, it was on a stone crag. Decided to do the extra miles down to Neel’s Gap and a hostel.  We got there late and had to tent out back.  There was a St Patrick’s Day party at a firering not 20′ from our tent.  Thank God for the hard rain at midnight.  There were a bunch of folks pounding Bongos! They thought it was music, I thought it sounded like some four year olds banging on dad’s drums. No sleep for Deb again!

Day four we had a fine breakfast at the hostel then some shopping at the outfitter and on the trail. We got some “Trail Magic” in the form of  water, soda and some bananas at Hog Pen Gap.  We camped that night by a waterfall in the middle of nowhere and both slept like babies. Day five was fairly uneventful with 13 + miles of good hiking. Day six was the first day of Spring.  We stayed at Tray Mtn with about 30 other hikers.  We did 12 miles into Dick’s Creek Gap then down to Hiwassee, GA for a stay in a hostel and our first showers in a week.

We ended up taking a Zero day (no walking-0 miles) that Sunday.  A good choice as the rain was very bad and we stayed toasty warm by the wood stove.  I did go to a local church and give a presentation on Samaritan’s Purse, and received our first pledge fo our hike!

Monday we hit the trail in the snow! Last time this happened on the trail we headed for town, this time better equiped we headed into the wilderness.  It was uncomfortable at times for Deb, but just another winter exercise for me.  4″ of snow over night and temps dropping into the teens.  Tuesday we did max miles, 16.9 to be exact.  This is real early to have such long miles, but we both felt great.  More Trail Magic from folks who had hiked the trail before.  We can’t wait to take our turn in handing some out next year.

We did big miles for the next few days in fairly good weather and made N.O.C. a day early.  We did get some night-time rain but no more snow.  It took us two days from N.O.C. to here at Fontana Dam, NC the southern entrance to the Smokies!  We have been hearing about how bad the snow was here as the mountains go to over 6,000′.  Snow is 2′-4′ deep in places above 4,000′, but the trail is passable.  Tomorrow we will head north into the mountains to see for ourselves.  There is no phone service up there so we will be out of touch for 6-7 days.

Riding the train from Syracuse to Gainesville, GA went fairly smooth.  We saw many places along the tracks where flooding was a real problem.  One nice thing about the train is we can carry things that would never make it on a plane, like my pocket knife.  We also carried our food and water so we could eat along the way.  The lay over in New York City went quick and we got to have some NYC pizza for lunch.  There is twice the leg room on the train as all but first class on an airplane, compared to a bus it was pure luxury!

We did however have a couple of small children in the seat behind us that got a bit cranky a time or two.  A middle school class was returning from NYC to NC, so there was a lot of foot traffic through the cars until about 10PM.  We managed to get a few hours of sleep after Danville, NC.  Morning came quickly with losing the hour for Daylight Savings Time.  Our ride arrived at the station within minutes of the train pulling out.

Weather today here is overcast with temps in the mid 40s, but no rain!  Tomorrow and the following five days are supposed to be dry.  In a few hours we will get driven into town for one last stop for small things and pick up something for supper.  Breakfast is 7:30 tomorrow then once all the hikers get their stuff ready it will be off to the trail for the hike.  Looks like we will have plenty of company, seven other hikers are set to start with us.  We will also meet up with some of the 13 that started the approach trail this morning.  We are starting on top at the forest service road, saving 8.8 miles of up hill non-whiteblaze walking (White-Blaze marks official trail).

We have a private room for the night so other than me, no snoring!

Trail question…..  Why does the guy who snores loudest go to sleep the fastest and earliest?

It will be about a week before the next update here.  I will be doing updates on my Facebook page and doing "TrailPhone.net"   We are listed as "Walking Man with Grace and Glory"  I did an update yesterday and will do another tomorrow.